South Africa – “The Rainbow Nation”

(March 2020 – March 2022)

In March of 2020 we needed to leave Australia. Our 1 year visas were expiring but we had managed to stretch them to 15 months due to a technicality. Nevertheless, we were sadly obligated to depart. But the Couple travelling around the world must move on….

We chose South Africa for 2 reasons. At that time, SA had only 2-3 confirmed COVID-19 cases and no fatalities, lagging far behind all other countries. (Those statistics were drastically different 11 months later.) Secondly, it was the furthest we could fly for free with our United Airlines award miles code shared with Qatar Airlines, thus giving us way more bang for the buck.

After a long layover in the sleek & modern Doha terminal we arrived very jetlagged in Johannesburg. Informally known as Jozi, Joburg, or “The City of Gold”. It is the largest city in South Africa, classified as a megacity, and one of the 50 largest urban areas in the world. We rented a car, cured our jetlag in a local hotel, then sped away to less urban areas, knowing we’d spend more time in Joburg on our way out of the country.

Our original itinerary was very detailed for our 90 day visa excursion. Similar to our Australia journey, we would circumnavigate the entire country, visiting all 9 provinces, fly up to Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe & Zambia border, then fly somewhere to continue our slooow trip around the world. We had confirmed reservations in timeshares, Airbnbs & hotels. Damn you Covid for wrecking these plans but as it turned out, we had a much, much longer adventure.

Our first stop was a week at the Sudwala Lodge timeshare in the province of Mpumalanga (Zulu name for “the place where the sun rises”). Our 2-bedroom thatched cottage was a great launching point for visiting the local ancient Sudwala Caves, Dinosaur Park, and Butterfly Effect. But the highlight was getting up before dawn to drive to Kruger National Park. Watching elephants, rhinos, giraffes, zebras, and more crossing the dirt roads of our self-drive safari was a dream come true.

The next stop for a week was at the Crystal Springs Mountain Lodge timeshare high in the mountains of Mpumalanga. Here we had a 2 bedroom, 2 level cabin with sweeping views of its spectacular cliffs, gorges and forests. Within its 2,400 hectares of pristine countryside, birdlife was plentiful and wild animals such as zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, antelope and jackal inhabited the area. The nearby Panorama Route lived up to its name and offered 5 waterfalls; remarkable formations like the Pinnacle, 3 Rondavels & Bourke Potholes; Echo & Madonna Caves; and the third-largest canyon on Earth-Blyde River Canyon. And again we entered Kruger National Park through a different gate for another wild animal filled self-drive safari. 

We then proceeded 5 hrs to the Mabalingwe Game Reserve timeshare in SA’s most northern Limpopo province which borders Botswana, Zimbabwe & Mozambique. Mabalingwe is a huge 8,500 hectares and malaria free unspoiled bushveld nestled in the shadow of the majestic Waterberg Mountains. It hosts its own dams, lakes and wildlife reserve. On many self-drives around the property we encountered all manner of wildlife while hanging around the many waterholes. We had a 2-level loft-style stone chalet with 30 ft wood rafter ceilings and sweeping views of the countryside. Just outside our door we’d be greeted with wild bush pigs, baboons or an assortment of birds. ‘Twas a nice stay until….. 

COVID-19 hit South Africa with a thunderclap. President Cyril Ramaphosa announced the highest level lockdown 5 to go into effect near the end of March 2020. The resort was required to close, and we had to locate new accommodations fast. Fortunately, we found a one-bedroom condo in Durban but had to drive a torturous 9 hours/800km to get there before the lockdown commenced. The drive was a race against time but we arrived a few hours before the lockdown commenced. 

Our 600 sq ft condo was in a very modern, curved building entitled The Sails. Our wall-to-wall & floor-to-ceiling windows & large 130 sq ft deck overlook the entrance to the harbor, the harbor itself, and the Indian Ocean. Good thing because we’ve been here for the past 10 months as of this writing. A few minutes walking brings us to the ocean, the longest beachfront promenade in Sub-Saharan Africa, many piers, a canal system, and the uShaka Marine complex with the 5th largest aquarium in the world. Not a bad place to be stranded…..   

Durban is South Africa’s 3rd largest city, the largest and busiest shipping terminal in sub-Saharan Africa, and one of the largest Indian cities outside India. When the lockdown restrictions eased were able to visit many of its highlights and other areas of our KwaZulu-Natal province.

Durban city highlights include: Moses Mabhida Stadium which hosted soccer’s 2010 World Cup; Durban Botanical Gardens; Blue Lagoon; Wilson’s Warf; Durban City Hall; Farewell Square; Riverside Mosque; Old Durban Railway Station; Playhouse Bldg; Durban High Court; Port Natal Maritime Museum; Brighton Beach & Cave Rock; Beachwood Mangroves Boardwalk; and St Paul Anglican Church.  

Venturing north we especially enjoyed the uMhlanga Lighthouse & nearby beaches; Whale Bone Pier; Gateway Mall; and uMhlanga Nature Reserve. A little further north were the uMdolti beaches & interesting rock formations.  

Further lockdown easing gave us a chance to do some further explorations. One day/week we ventured further out to hike some marvelous places such as: Krantzloof Nature Reserve and its many falls; Tala Game Reserve; Natal Lion Park; Howick Falls; Midmar Nature Reserve; Umgeni Nature Reserve; Paradise Valley Nature Reserve; Harold Johnson Nature Reserve; The Midlands; African Raptor Center; Natal Zoological Gardens; and more. 

 Starting in October 2020, with added easing of COVID-19 restrictions, we decided to travel further distances one week/month to stay in a timeshare. Our first such foray was deep into the Drakensbergs, the highest mountain range in SA and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We scored a 4-level, 2-bedroom chalet at a magnificent resort with a lake, hiking trails, and many activities. It felt so good to sleep somewhere else besides Durban after 5 months. 

Our favorite trail at the resort was to the Blue Grotto & Waterfall, which had a grand cave. Several other hikes proved interesting as well. But our highlight was driving to Monk’s Cowl. Several days of hiking to Sterkspruit & Nandi Falls, The Sphinx, and Robin Hood Grove brought us into the heart of the dramatic Drakensbergs.   

We liked it so much we spent another week in November at the same Drakensberg Sun in the same chalet. We took some other resort hikes for different views but this time the highlight was driving 90 minutes to the even more dramatic part of the Drakensbergs-Cathedral Peak. The jagged mountain vistas were awesome, and the waterfall hikes were robust. We’re so keen on the Drakenbergs that we went back there in March 2023.  

The last month in 2020 saw us travel south to the seaside town of Manaba Beach, where we enjoyed a gorgeous 5th-story 2-bedroom condo with a huge deck overlooking Lucien & Margate beaches. We had some local hikes along the coastline; Red Desert; Splash Rock; and the Mpenjati Nature Reserve. But the highlight was easily the 2 times we visited the brilliant Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve. We went to the Lake Eland Game Reserve and the Oribi Gorge Hotel sections. Each had thrilling suspension bridges; waterfalls; great hikes; caves; and splendid vistas. Oribi gorge is a million years old, cut by the Umzinkulwana River, 400m deep and 4km at its widest point. The total length is 27kms long. 

The first month of 2021 found us travelling 3 hours north along the coast to St Lucia, a sleepy, 500-population beach town renowned for its hippos and proximity to wonderful nature reserves. We spent a few days entering the Dukuduku & Bhangazi Gates to explore different areas of the iSimmangaliso Wetland Park, SA’s first World Heritage site. We saw many mammals in their natural habitat, but were most impressed with the huge hippos, which we watched play for hours. The park has undoubtedly the largest hippo population in SA, estimated at 800 hippos. At the far end of the coast lies Cape Vidal where there was excellent snorkeling in a protected bay. 

Getting up before dawn, we drove to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi National Park, small in comparison to the Kruger National Park, but the oldest proclaimed nature reserve on the continent. It remains one of the best places in Africa to see wild black & white rhinos. We did a self-driving safari for a day and spent hours hanging with rhinos, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, and rare centenary bird

Back in Durban, we visited some local favorite spots. The Umgeni River Bird Park was located in a lush spot across from the river that used to be a quarry. It was chock-full of all kinds of exotic birds. The nearby Japanese Gardens contained traditional features like lily ponds, sculptures & meandering walkways which highlighted this public garden.

Later in February, we drove 3 hours south of Duban to spend a relaxing week in an RCI exchange resort, Secret Sands Glenmore Beach. Perched on the beach, it offered excellent beach hiking & swimming.

Not content to just stay on the beach, we took a short drive, before the Eastern Cape Provincial border, to the Umthamvuna Nature Reserve. The 3-hour Mpunzi Trail from the South Gate offered stunning views of the Mtamvuna River’s high gorge. We liked it so much we came the next day to the North Gate for more rocky ledge trails on the Bulolo River, where we spotted many fish eagles.
We wrapped up this glorious week with many beach romps and a trip to the Lake Eland Game Reserve. A self-guided game drive enabled us to see some giant giraffes, zebras, blue wildebeests, aardvarks, eland impalas, monkeys, vultures & antelopes. Another highlight was a hike from Hell’s Gate down to the Umzimkulwana river on the cliff side & the 80m suspension bridge, which got our hearts pumping.

We finished March 2021 with another timeshare stay in the gorgeous Drakensberg Mountains, known for its rugged cliffs with many 3K+ meter peaks, basaltic rock formations, lush valleys, bearded vultures, elands, and rare orchids. We twice drove 2 hours, very close to the Lesotho country border, to Cathedral Peak, which some describe as “The Ultimate Drakensberg Experience”. Many strenuous hikes to Rainbow Gorge, Tryme Hill, Ndumeni River Gorge & Baboon Rock were tiring yet rewarding.

Closer to our Drakensberg Sun digs, we shared some spectacular hikes to: Blue Grotto, Monk’s Cowl, Sterkspruit Waterfall, Cleo Pools, & the Fern Forest. We’re SO fond of the Drakensbergs!

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April saw us going to the Underberg region of the Drakensberg Mountains, where we found another timeshare resort. Roads in this area were mostly gravel & filled with potholes. Regardless, we had one of the most beautiful hikes to the HUGE Sleeping Beauty Cave, with magnificent views along the way. The Rhino trail up to Pillar Cave & Pillar Annex just blew us away with its magnificence. Driving home was a nightmare due to some rioting, which forced us on a huge detour.

A May highlight was visiting the Mahatma Gandhi House Phoenix Settlement in Durban. People forget that Gandhi lived in South Africa for 21 years, where he developed his philosophy of nonviolent resistance (satyagraha).

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Back to another section of the 700km Drakensberg Range for a week in June, this stint to Bushmans Nek Berg & Trout Resort had the best panoramic room view of these glorious mountains. So many fabulous trails here: Langalibalele Cave via the Giants Cup Trail with faded bushman paintings; Twin Pools; Bushman’s Pool; Slab aka Halfway Cave; Surprise Pool & Waterfall.

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Durban saw its worst riots in decades in July 2021, sparked by the imprisonment of former President Jacob Zuma for contempt of court. Shopping malls were looted & burned, storage facilities ransacked, and neighborhoods saw looting & violence. From our deck, we could see several huge fires. Absolute chaos reigned for a week.

Earlier that month, we were finally able to get our first Covid-19 jabs after a gigantic queue at the Moses Mabhida Stadium.

Our final 1-week trip to the Drakensbergs happened in August at a new 3-bed/2-bath resort near the Royal Natal National Park. Once again, hiking trails abounded: Yellowood Trail; bushwhacking Cascades Alpine trails; Gudu Bush & Falls; Lookout Rock; Solo Policeman’s Helmet; Sunday Falls; Grotto; Hidden Glen; Fairy Glen & Falls. The most challenging & superb one was the 10+ km Gorge Trail to outstanding views of Amphitheater Wall, Sentinel Peak 3, & the Eastern Buttress.

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FINALLY, by the end of August 2021, we had our 2 COVID-19 jabs, and intra-province travel within South Africa was permitted. So on September 1st, after 17 months in Durban, we were free to explore the rest of SA’s beautiful provinces.

Leaving KwaZulu Province into Eastern Cape Province, September highlights included: the 1878 Cape Saint Francis Lighthouse; Storms River Bridge & the Tsisikamma National Park with its waterfalls & suspension bridges; Oudtshoorn ostrich farms & feather boom era mansions; Cango Caves; Mossel Bay; and L’Agulhas Lighthouse, the most southern point on African continent and meeting of Indian & Atlantic Oceans.

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On the 20^th anniversary of the tragic 9/11 World Trade Center disaster, we arrived at our bucket list dream destination: Cape Town, the legislative capital of SA and capital of Western Cape province.

MORE TO FOLLOW

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